Crystal celebration

De Bethune released the DB28 steel-wheeled sapphire tourbillon at the Geneva Watch Fair.

This is a special year to celebrate an anniversary, let us say this. If you are a brand and plan to commemorate a particular model or series in 2020, then it must be outstanding to attract our attention. A good example: De Bethune brought their DB28 10th anniversary timepiece. Just a few months ago, in mid-April, De Bethune released three new DB28 models in ultra-thin format. A new field of Ste-Croix brand. One of them is an exceptionally beautiful tourbillon, which demonstrates Denis Flageollet’s extraordinary ability to execute a perfectly conceived micromechanical artwork that combines heavy technology with lightness and elegance.

When the global health pandemic led to the double cancellation of Baselworld and Watches & Wonders (the latter was completely converted to an online format), and the Geneva fake Watch Day Salon opened, De Bethune released the first Four commemorative pieces-DB28 steel sapphire tourbillon.

The original DB28 steel wheels made their debut in early 2018, and their bold beauty directly attracted De Bethune’s ardent followers (and it did include a lot). The spherical time scale echoes the shape of the iconic spherical moon phase at 6 o’clock, accurate to 122 years. Sapphire crystal hands have appeared in models that require as many dials as possible to be visible, such as the DB26 perpetual calendar and the DB25 dial inspired by ancient Mayan art. They are here again to emphasize the openness of the dial structure.

Now, the new DB28 steel wheel has its titanium and platinum balance wheel encapsulated in a tourbillon cage, which doubles the aesthetic vitality of the steel wheel. The iconic replica De Bethune tourbillon rotates every 30 seconds, and the speed is increased due to the extremely low quality of the balance wheel and silicon escapement. Another component of the name of the DB28 steel-wheeled sapphire tourbillon watch is the iconic triangular bridge that occupies the center of the dial-the electric blue arrow of laser-cut transparent blue synthetic sapphire and the transparent sapphire crystal Lens tube cap.

The skeletonized hands replace the polished sapphire crystal (which may avoid the excessive lethality of the sapphire crystal), and the surface is polished and flame blue (another De Bethune business card) titanium. If De Bethune uses this to celebrate anniversaries even in a challenging year, I can’t wait to see what they propose for future special events.

Highly refined, the essence of exquisite craftsmanship De Bethune understands and lives in Métiers d’Art (handicrafts) as a powerful contribution to unique humans. Among the various handmade decorations of the De Bethune movement, the mirror polishing of titanium provides an amazing brilliance. The surface of the component is finished to reflect the ambient light perfectly. Polish the metal surface patiently until it becomes a real mirror.

It may take many days to polish the result. The moment the matter gradually settles and the atoms fall, it gradually becomes so slow. At that moment, “knowing” that the boxwood whetstone and diamond paste were going too far away. Between that moment is a deep and flawless mirror effect and an imperfect contrast. All of these are the result of the interaction between the brain, eyes and hands. Apart from proprietary technology, this is a handicraft issue. To exceed the boundaries of excellence in all fields in this way requires a strong desire and unimpeded motivation.

Floating lugs keep this watch medium in size, bringing unparalleled comfort. The DB28 steel rim sapphire tourbillon has a polished grade 5 titanium case and is mounted on the new floating ears launched this year. After being completely redesigned, coordinated and adapted to the spirit of the replica luxury watches, they are tipped by the famous “bullet” and are more prominent here, reminiscent of the spirit of the first Bethune series.

The finishing touch: a crocodile leather strap with a titanium buckle also contributes to the practicality and daily wearability of this special timepiece.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon Technical Specifications

Name: DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

Reference: DB28SWTTIS1Functions: Hours, Minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, Power reserve situated on the back

Movement: DB2019V5

Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)

Technical features of calibre DB2019V5
Number of parts: 272
Jewelling: 39 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium
De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment:

Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Curved, open worked and beveled barrel bridge with glass blued sapphire
Open worked and hand sailed barrels with glass blued sapphire and blued titanium beveled rings
Rhodium power reserve indicator background decorated with “De Bethune” circular graining
Blued and engraved ring
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand
Display
Display:

Minutes and hours hand in hand-polished sand-blasted blued titanium
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Dial: Circular-grained titanium hours ring
Spherical polished titanium hour-markers set and 30” dial on a blued polished titanium circle
Case and strap
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 9.80 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs –De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in blued steel Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium