In the last conversation a few months ago, CEO Georges Kern had trouble keeping his cool because he was sniffing Breitling’s 2021 novelty-of course nothing was revealed. As we have discovered now, his excitement is totally justified. This year, the Premier series continues to expand, including six new and particularly stylish Premier Heritage Chrono models in three sub-series.
Sports timing meets formal watches
In 2018, Kern proposed the first prime minister of the new era. In a sense, this is surprising, because before the restart, the model was not particularly noticed by anyone. The Premier series is based on the series originally conceived by Willy Breitling in the 1940s, which draws on the achievements of its predecessors and personal insights into modern and elegant watches. These include a combination of a Léon Breitling speedometer display and a Gaston Breitling chronograph (with a separate button at 2 o’clock). Willy Breitling added two independent chronograph buttons at 4 o’clock to further refine these functions to create a stylish watch with a sensual case and a low-key dial.
At the time, Willy Breitling was an important supplier of important military and pilot watches, despite his growing desire to return to normal after years of war. He wants to bring back a feeling of optimism for himself and others through beautiful objects. In addition, Willy Breitling is obsessed with fashion. Therefore, it is not surprising that the first prime minister in 1943 was Willy Breitling’s dream come true; a stylish watch that also incorporates the technical essence of the company’s history.
Evolving collection
Georges Kern is likely to see himself as a cross-generational spokesperson for this historic model. After re-launching the product line in 2018, Kern respectfully adopted the achievements of the company’s founder, made minor adjustments, and technically updated the Premier.
Now, he continues to follow Willy Breitling’s thoughts on elegant watches by introducing some new features. In other words, Kern also left some fashionable space. This involves keeping Premier as a watch that can be used as a formal watch, but with enough sportiness so that it can be worn in a leather jacket like a suit jacket. Therefore, the once baton index is now Arabic numerals, and the pointer has become more classic. In addition, new precious metals and new features are entering Premier watches. In addition, all new models are equipped with exquisite alligator leather straps and pins of the same color.
After considering the history and inspiration behind Premier, let’s take a look at the new models.
Noble B09 Chronograph 40
The Premier Chronograph, which was previously 42 mm in size, now has two 40 mm models to choose from. This is essentially Breitling’s “rooted” move-the size of the historic Premier model has been reduced by 36-38 mm. Of course, this is simply not fashionable today.
In addition, the appearance of the movement can be traced back to the origin of the model and now has a classic manual winding mechanism. The new chronograph uses Breitling’s B09 movement, with movement 01 as its core. This is the movement that powers the Navitimer Ref. 806 and AVI reference. 765. In addition, the choice of manual winding movement means that the open caseback is a particularly pleasant feature.
The Premier Chronograph extension also introduces several new color and material combinations. One of the two models shows a pistachio green dial with a stainless steel case. At the same time, the second model has a silver dial and an 18-carat red gold case. The workmanship of both dials is impressive (in fact, this applies to all models). On the one hand, Breitling keeps the sub-dial in the same tone as the dial. In addition, the Arabic numerals and the “B” on the Breitling logo are not simply printed, but neatly applied. Like Arabic numerals, raising the baton’s hand to the cathedral’s hand is a smart move.
Breitling’s internal movement B09 has passed COSC certification and provides a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The new Premier B09 chronograph comes with a golden brown alligator strap and a foldable clasp.
Premier B15 Duograph 42
It is foreseeable that the Premier chronograph will be given a drag pointer sooner or later. After all, as a timekeeping expert, the Watch House has yet to be proven in this complex field. Willy Breitling (Willy Breitling) launched the first Breitling Duograph as early as 1944. Duograph means two chronograph hands, originally established at Breitling, instead of using the more common terms “drag pointer” or “mousetrap”.
This is a two-part premiere of the 21st century. Breitling (Breitling) launched a new movement, namely Breitling (Breitling) manufactured movement B15. The movement uses the self-made movement B03, but it is manually wound instead of automatic. The movement height is 15.35 mm. The integrated crown pusher for dragging the pointer function is a special feature previously used on historical models.
The new Premier B15 Duograph 42 can be used in a glossy dark blue dial in a stainless steel case, or in a black dial and an 18-carat red gold case. The Breitling internal movement B15 with manual winding device has also passed COSC certification and provides a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Both versions come with a brown or black alligator leather strap with folding clasp.
Prime Minister B25 Datola 42
George Kern kept recovering the lost treasures from the Breitling archives. In the Premier series, Willy Breitling also introduced a sub-series called “Datora”. In addition to the classic chronograph display, it also integrates the date, date and moon phase display.
Today, people would think that it is not typical for Breitling. For Georges Kern, however, this embodies his original goal, which was to take over and turn Breitling into CEO and co-owner. It provides a valuable stage for many historical models of the brand.
If you take a look at the Datera Reference 805 from 1946, you will see how strikingly similar the new model is to similar products with a long history. Breitling only added some light to it through some small new details and the addition of the internal automatic winding movement B25.
The new Datora 42 has a champagne-colored (Breitling actually calls it “bronze”) dial and a stainless steel case. At first glance, this watch is reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5270P or Lange’s Datograph. However, just as the devil is in the details, in this sense, people should re-examine the subtle differences.
The second change of the new Datora 42 is the silver dial and 18-carat red gold case. Both models come with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. Powering them is the new Breitling internal automatic movement B25, which has a 48-hour power reserve and has obtained COSC certification.
The new models are all executed very well. However, Breitling must realize that the height of the prime minister may not meet everyone’s taste. Due to the modular structure of the movement, the height of Duograph and Datora is 15.35 mm, which does not completely flatten the wrist. With the new Premier Heritage Chrono series, Breitling has taken an interesting step in the future of its brand development. This series provides a brand-new approach for watch companies that relies on the success of some icons for too long. The new Premier has changed the rules of the game and is likely to attract whole new customers-from London to Tokyo, successful start-up entrepreneurs or young creatives see it as an ornament.
BRAND
Breitling
MODEL
Premier Heritage Chrono
Premier B09 Chronograph 40
Premier B15 Duograph 42
Premier B25 Datora 42
REFERENCE
Premier B09 Chronograph 40
AB0930D31L1P1 (Pistachio green, Steel)
RB0930371G1P1 (Silver, RG)
Premier B15 Duograph 42
AB1510171C1P1 (Blue, Steel)
RB1510251B1P1 (Black, RG)
Premier B25 Datora 42
AB2510201K1P1 (Copper, Steel)
RB2510371G1P1 (Silver, RG)
CASE MATERIAL
Stainless steel
18 k red gold
DIMENSIONS
Premier B09 Chronograph 40
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 13.08 mm
Premier B15 Duograph 42
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 15.35 mm
Premier B25 Datora 42
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 15.35 mm
WATER RESISTANCE
10 bar (~100 m)
DIAL
Premier B09 Chronograph 40
Pistachio green / Silver
Premier B15 Duograph 42
Blue / Black
Premier B25 Datora 42
Copper / Silver
STRAP/BRACELET
Dark-brown alligator leather strap with folding clasp
Gold-brown alligator leather strap with folding clasp
Black alligator leather strap with folding clasp
MOVEMENT
Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09
Breitling Manufacture Caliber B15
Breitling Manufacture Caliber B25
MOVEMENT TYPE
B09 – manual-winding
B15 – manual-winding
B25 – self-winding (unidirectional with ball bearing)
POWER RESERVE
Approximately 70 hours
FREQUENCY
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
FUNCTIONS
Premier B09 Chronograph 40
Hour, minute, second
Chronograph:
column-wheel, vertical clutch, 1/4th second, 30-minute counter
Premier B15 Duograph 42
Hour, minute, second
Chronograph:
split-second chronograph, column-wheel, vertical clutch, 1/4th second, 30-minute counter
Premier B25 Datora 42
Hour, minute, second, day, date, month, moonphase
Chronograph:
column-wheel, vertical clutch, 1/4th second, 30-minute counter