Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous De Paris” Ref. 6119 watch with new design and movement

Entering its 90th anniversary, the Calatrava series has just passed the Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous De Paris” Ref. 6119, or a shorter form, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119. Available in 18ct white gold and 18ct 5N rose gold, the nailed Calatrava now has a more modern finish, a slightly larger diameter, and the dial has applied hour markers…oh, and a new manual winding movement .

Calatrava needs no introduction, because it easily ranks among the world’s top luxury formal watches-it has established this status since 1932. They use a flat or slightly round bezel, smooth and polished, inlaid with gemstones, or decorated with guilloche patterns, from ultra-thin to more conspicuous, equipped with officer case and smooth dial. As far as the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch series are concerned, there are many things worth reviewing, but now let’s see what it looks like from today.

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 6119-its reference number pays tribute to the 3919 in 1985 and the 5119 in 2006-the main difference is the slightly larger diameter of 39 mm. The thickness of the case is 8.43 mm, the measurement between the lugs is 46.9 mm, and the distance between the lugs is 21 mm. Patek Philippe said: “It reflects the ever-changing preferences of our time and emphasizes its presence on the wrist without compromising the slenderness and elegance of the case.” Frankly speaking, this is a bit strange because of the big watches. Trends have begun to change, and I’m not sure how much upward pressure there is on the case size of iconic formal watches. But I digress. I believe that Patek Philippe has worked hard to complete its homework and evaluated the needs of global customers for the next Calatrava. More importantly, from the official pictures, the final result looks very symmetrical-in my opinion, this is much better than many recent Calatrava watches.

As the longer name of this new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 implies, the round bezel is decorated with a guilloche stud pattern called clous de Paris. This is a rather rough pattern, precisely because of its pyramid-like “roughness”, the exquisite and delicate curves of the new lugs and the simple round face are actually like magic. The dial now uses obus-style hour markers to complement the nail-shaped bezel.

Powering the new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119R and 6119G watches is what Patek Philippe calls the “new movement.” The goal is to create a hand-wound movement with a diameter greater than 215 PS, while still being thin enough to maintain the thickness of the case. “The inner case of the new 30-255 PS movement has a diameter of 30.4 mm (total diameter of 31 mm), while the 215 PS (total diameter of 21.9 mm) is 21.5 mm, and the height remains unchanged, as its name suggests, it is 2.55 mm. “In order to maintain the 2.55 mm height of the 215 movement, Patek Philippe created a central pinion without a wheel, which meshes with the central wheel through an intermediate wheel, and a ratchet and crown located under the barrel bridge. To it.

Although we can easily call it an “ultra-thin” construction, the power reserve has been extended to 65 hours-almost enough to last from Friday night to early Monday morning. Although the operating frequency is quite high at 4 Hz, this is still achieved-for a movement that is only 2.55 mm thick, 4 Hz over 65 hours is impressive. This is mainly due to the enlarged diameter that provides enough space for the installation of two mainspring barrels installed in parallel-this is again quite rare, because dual mainsprings are often coupled in series. Working in parallel means more torque, which provides a greater moment of inertia for the balance (10 mg/cm2, which is indeed very high and the highest among all Patek Philippe 4Hz movements.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back to show off the new movement. Water resistant to 3 bar (equivalent to 30m). The dial is made of brass, and the hands and hour markers are made of 18ct gold to match the case. The strap is an alligator leather strap with large square scales, with “mechanical hand stitching”, with 18ct gold claw buckle. high quality replica watches