A modern watch classic with a warm new case.

MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar debuted in 2015, and when we first saw it in metal, we were shocked (so much so that I actually had to use the word “shock”). It is not necessarily surprising to see MB&F watches with great visual effects, but I think LM QP is excellent even among other distinguished companies of MB&F watches. This is a technical tour, combined with a new type of perpetual calendar, a major improvement on the complex and fragile classic perpetual calendar mechanism, designed by independent watchmaker Stephen McDonnell (Interestingly, he is also Oxford University graduate) theologian). The overall design was finished by Eric Giroud and sports,

Since 2015, Legacy Machine Perpetual has launched white gold, red gold, platinum and titanium models (except for titanium models, a total of 25 watches, a total of 50), and won the best calendar watch award in the 2016 edition of GPHG on. This is the first (and possibly the last time) the 581 component movement has been placed in a gold case with a dark blue dial.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar has the same basic characteristics as other Legacy Machines: the balance wheel is suspended under a two-legged bridge, raising it above the plane of the dial-in fact, it is far higher than the dial, which means you need A very long balance bar, because the escapement is located far below the inside of the movement. For the Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar, this raises an interesting design problem, because in the traditional perpetual calendar, the hour and minute hands are located in the center of the dial, not the balance wheel. Stephen McDonnell’s solution was to move the hour and minute hands to a smaller dial at 12:00, and the other three sub-dials—actually rings—display the date, month, and day of the week, distributed in the remaining space around them. . balance.

Whether on the front or back, the movement is a gorgeous work. The mechanism of a perpetual calendar (in a wristwatch) usually relies on program wheels with different depth steps each month. A sophisticated leverage system “reads” the depth of each step, and then causes the calendar to skip the 31st day of the 30-day month. This is as much as the annual calendar, but the perpetual calendar also skips the 29th, 30th, and 31st at the end of February, and “knows” that the 29th day is added at the end of February in each leap year. (If you are interested in getting really close to the sport, Peter Speake-Marin did a wonderful disassembly of The Naked Watchmaker.)

The McDonnell mechanism handles it slightly differently-instead of subtracting days from the 31-day program round as needed, it adds days to the 28-day program round as needed. The concise video made for the 2015 release is still the best introduction to how it works. mens replica watch

Of course, if you don’t see the metal case, you can’t fully appreciate the full effect of the new case and dial, but it looks the most promising. The platinum watch with the blue dial may be the most aristocratic style, while the red gold watch exudes a sense of dazzling richness, with a slight sense of antique clocks, which may be more clear than other watches. It is connected with the glory of the watchmaking industry in the past. But in gold, the watch presents a warm and relaxed but absolutely luxurious atmosphere, which is very suitable for complex functions and this special realization of the perpetual calendar. It feels very gentleman’s watch.

Like other precious metal watches, the Legacy Machine Perpetual gold model will be limited to 25 pieces. To understand the ins and outs of the movement in detail, check out our introduction and practical report on its launch in 2015.

MB&F LUXURY Legacy Machine Perpetual: case, 44.5 mm x 17.5 mm; case, gold. The movement and the perpetual calendar mechanism were developed by MB&F and Stephen McDonnell; the frequency is 18,000 vph, with a safety mechanism that prevents the adjustment of the perpetual calendar when the date changes; the annual quick setting mechanism. Customized 14mm balance wheel; double barrel, power reserve 72 hours.